Jetstream Aonach Mor

Set out from Spean Bridge on 27th to climb with david Shortt from Stirling. The Nevis Range Gondola was out of action early and so we walked up from the valley on a perfect morning.  As a result of the late starting gondola we had the mountain to ourselves for the first half of the day which is unusual for Aonach Mor!  As we headed round the east side we were soon putting on crampons to make progress on the iron hard neve.  Fog lay in the glens and over the sea lochs almost all day.  The outlook was outstandingly beautiful.

Walking in and enjoying the sunshine. Snow was rock hard.

The arete overlooking the coire

Grey Corries in the background

The cliffs bathed in sunshine

Perfect morning.  Blue sky, some low fog and a hard hard frost.

More pics from Jetstream

Chris approaching top of second pitch

First pitch was a thin ribbon of ice

Setting off on the second pitch

Gettin steeper......

and finally over the steepest........

The first pitch was just there, with a couple of weaknesses below the bulges.  But good ice above allowed a safe pull over in each case.  As always the cliff feels steeper than it looks from below. David led the second pitch and decided to take the well formed Direct finish (grade 4,5) which proved to be incredibly steep for the lower half.  A very fine pitch with reasonable pro.

Countless planes zoomed over whilst we climbed the route and it was easy to see from the jet trails how this route got its name!

Finishing up Jetstream on Aonach Mor East Face 27 Dec

Heading down below the gondola

Glens and lochs buried in fog

Stepping up into the sunset

David approaches the cornice

Boxing day golf at Spean Bridge

Lovely day today, frosty start, sunshine at times, most of hills showing

and nice day for a game of golf.  Since it is now getting colder am planning to climb tomorrow.

The mountains are well covered on north and east sides in gullies and basins.  That snow should now be hard and mostly frozen.  May also be some snow ice and water ice forming high up.  Parts of the golf course remained frozen all day!

Calm and mild on Christmas day at Spean Bridge

A mild day, partly overcast, but with flashes of sun around middle of the day.

A walk in Leanachan showed the hills to be well stripped compared to their recent cover, but that higher hills will have good snow cover in gullies and basins when frost returns.

River Etive Christmas Eve

Callum Anderson and I whizzed down to Glen Etive and ran the waterfalls section on Christmas Eve morning.  A magnificent place as ever.  Granite, crystal clear water, pine trees, waterfalls and a glen of great beauty with stags everywhere and brown hillsides sweeping up to craggy mountains speckled with snow.  Shots of Block Falls (Chris in Blue Jefe), Right Angle Falls (Callum) and the final Corner Falls (Callum) before the metal bridge takeout.

River Findhorn at high level today!!

Had a magnificent run down the Findhorn from Banchor to Ardclach today.

River was high with some amazing wave trains.  The main rapids at Dulsie and Leven's Gorge were magnificent and rather like Idaho classics.  On the shortest day of the year we were even surfing big waves in the sunshine at times.  Paddled with Chris Ravey from Stirling and Sean Mulligan from Keith and a few others from Moray and Inverness. 

Glen Nevis - a quiet interlude

After gales yesterday and overnight and storm force winds in the forecast for tonight and tomorrow it was a quiet and pleasant day today.  On a visit into Fort William I took a wee trip in to Glen nevis to look at gorgeous scenery and wished I had been on Ben Nevis climbing.

River Garry, Inverness-shire

Paddled River Garry today solo.  Nice release, slightly more than a normal summer release.

Water was ice cold and was windy from SE, i.e. up river which was not expecting.  Place was deserted and wild.  Weather got super windy later this afternoon with heavy showers,  These have been wintry on hills until now but temperature has climbed from 3C to 8C and am expecting a huge flush from the snow covered hills tomorrow with heavy rain on top.  That should make the rivers go off big time!!!!!

Chris leading Peter Pan Direct Grade 5 Beinn Udlaidh

A few shots of Peter Pan Direct, showing just how good the ice is just now at Udlaidh.

Top picture is of Dan leading through on top pitch.  Leader on lower pitch is Chris

Beinn Udlaidh, Glen Orchy Ice Extravaganza

Climbed at Beinn Udlaidh today.  Great deal more ice since last Tuesday has formed and the cliff is in the best nick I have seen it in for a long time.  A mild 36 hours resulted in the deep snow melting down and becoming relatively well consolidated, although still a few steps to plug.  Went up with Dan from Edinburgh.  Verglas all over the road, even when we left.  Council don't seem to grit Glen Orchy Road.  We started by climbing the 2 pitch classic, Quartzvein Scoop, grade 4.  Ice on crux area was excellent.  Dan led first pitch and I the second.  Returned to our sacs for lunch and then I led Peter Pan Direct 5,5...which is a superb wall of ice, starting vertical and then easing back just enough to allow you to stay in balance.  Dan finished off the second pitch.  A quite outstanding day on the hill.  Left the crag just as it got dark and came off by torchlight.

River Pattack, Ardverikie

Kayaking on an ice cold River Pattack today with Callum Anderson. Rain and a thaw overnight brought the rivers up. The falls at the put in were pouring over in three places and the middle fall looked attractive, although difficult to judge the landing without checking it out first. All the ice and cold fingers ruled it our but the river was at a beautiful level and in some ways technically easier than at lower levels.

Staghorn Gully

Magnificently cold and clear day. Hard frost overnight. Walked into Creag Meaghaidh with Neil from Aberdeen and climbed Staghorn Gully, 1500ft Grade 3. Route was in early season condition, but the three ice pitches in the final gully were all in place, albeit thin and steep. Placed 5 ice screws which was a good sign and also a warthog, as the turf was frozen. Lovely walk out via Window and then out in moonlight, to head back for the Argyll MC Christmas meal. A hearty meal with copious amounts of wine and a sing song to follow with guitar etc.

5th December 2008

Heading to Laggan Pottery Bunkhouse for weekend with Argyll Mountaineering Club