Living the dream

A highland existence interspersed with regular travels and running a charity in Nepal

Pumpkin, (5) Creag Meagaidh Ice Climb


On what might be the last day of a long cold spell this winter, went to Creag Meagaidh with Chris Ravey to tackle Pumpkin, a famous and classic Grade 5 ice climb in the Inner Corrie of that fine peak.  Route shown below in pink with belay stances in red.

 The route started in cloud and light snow up steep ice for 90m

 Weather opened up as we climbed.  The crux of the route was high on the first pitch.
 Chris Ravey (above and below) working up the second pitch.

 Note the classic tied off leeper peg!  Good old school stuff!
 Walking back down through "The Window", a classic defile behind Meagaidh
 Back at the foot of the climb which we completed in four hours and below, walking out through the main corrie with the fantastic Post Face (Right) and Pinnacle Face (Centre Left) behind the frozen lochan.  Amazing to find such wointry and fine conditions on Meagaidh in mid April and only two other people on the whole mountain.  A memorable climb and memorable day.



No comments: