Went to Cairngorms with Dan and found a great deal of new blowing snow on top of nevee.Weather was a bit wild. Finished the route just at dark and walked out on bearing with headtorches. A fine but rugged day of climbing
The first long pitch was up icy slabs to a vague fault leading left with very sketchy belays, followed by a wade into the chimney proper with scarce runners until we reached a good peg belay on left wall, security at last. Route was covered in spindrift up to this point.
Climbing the steepenings in the chimney proper. Bridging moves make them slightly easier than they look and the nevee above each steep section allowed a solid pull through.
The second pitch in the chimney proper gives nice secure but strenuous climbing with good protection
Moving up into the depths of this awesome chimney, towards the cave belay at the very back
The extraordinary finish, back and footing out from the cave towards daylight and the group of blocks jammed in the outer jaws. This unlikely move was actually easier than it looked. It then allows an escape to the right and quite quickly to the top of the crag and safety.
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