Map showing Erraid and the position of Eilean Dubh and Eilean nam Muc to the SW.
The sketch map to right shows the layout of Eilean nam Muc.
Whilst on Erraid, we were paddling round west side one day when I decided to paddle on the west side of Eilean Dubh by Tinker's Hole. There I spotted an impressive granite crag and so next day David Shortt and I paddled out there in our sea kayaks. The grooveline left of the triple overhangs looked interesting.
Chris led the route, named Eileen Doo, and despite a lot of lichen and one or two suspect holds, it gave a fine thrutchy climb of VS, 4c. On our way back to the Erraid camp we decided to paddle outside Eilean nam Muc and were inspired by the cliffs we saw on the south end of this island and vowed to go there next day.
View of the eastern end of the cliffs on the south end of Eilean nam Muc. We called the place the Dream Walls.
A bay on the northwest corner is guarded by a skerry and allows a landing in good weather. From here you climb onto the summit of the island with spectacular views to Iona, Mull and the mainland as well as other islands in the inner Hebrides.
Eilean Dubh seen from the summit of Eilean nam Muc. A full description of all the new routes done over three visits is available from Chris by contacting him at speanbridge@googlemail.com
St Andrew's Crack RH - climber David Shortt
All or Nubbin, climber Chris Dickinson
The beautiful slabby wall of the Eastern sector, David Shortt leading Flakey Friends (also below)
Chris leading Slab and Tickle HVS 5sa
Chris solos Blockbuster
David leading David's Delight
Chris soloing Crescent Moon
......and also Knob Face
Chris Ravey follows the hand traverse first led by Chris Dickinson of Starboard Tack and then below, the slab of Port Tack, continuation of the same climb.
Anthony seconding Chris Dickinson's Islay Wall.
Anthony Walker leading Take a Flakey
..........and Fast Lane
Anthony seconding Chris Ravey's Xenolith
Beforte leading his own route, Xenophobe
James Kinnaird leading the Pooch.
Chris Dickinson leading Banana Arete
James on Clifton Crack
and Robster Lobster.
The forbidding East Wall of Eilean nam Muc from a sea kayak. The line of the rightward slanting Cat's Crawl is very obvious at the left hand end of the crag. Below, James leads Cat's Crawl.
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